The good oil

by Carla Caruso

While an historic olive grove is under threat in one Park Lands spot, elsewhere such trees are being used to their full potential.

In Kate Cocks Park, the number of SA Police horses now grazing in its grove has arborists scared for the health of the 160-year-old trees.

And that’s not the grove’s only woes. The spot’s also at risk from a state government plan to build a multi-storey car park there – threatening both the trees and the home of the police horses.

It’s a different story, however, for the olive trees at West Terrace Cemetery.

Most of the cemetery’s olive trees are in the western end, with a few others dotted throughout. Photo: Adelaide Cemeteries.

The cemetery, which now sprawls over almost half of Park 23, has just released another line of limited edition extra virgin olive oil. Its first edition was unveiled in 2013.

The unique, local oil was pressed from the fruit of 60 trees, planted more than 150 years ago. 

Adelaide Cemeteries chief operating officer Michael Robertson says the annual release is always popular. “Customers like buying it for a number of reasons. Some have relatives buried at West Terrace Cemetery, others like supporting locally made products and, of course, there’s the novelty.

“We’re not aware of any other cemetery in Australia that grows olives that are processed to make oil. We see this as an excellent way to ensure the fruit doesn’t go to waste. 

“Proceeds from the sale of 300 bottles will go towards the continuing restoration of monuments at Adelaide’s oldest cemetery.”

The cemetery’s 2021 vintage was released in October.

The olives were pressed by Diana Olive Oil at Willunga and bottled by Minda as part of its social enterprise initiative. (The 250ml bottles sell for $13.50 and are stocked at GAJA Express on Waymouth Street and Jagger Fine Foods at the Adelaide Central Market.)

Adding some star power to the release was Sashi Cheliah, who’s been named as this year’s ambassador. Sashi won TV show MasterChef in 2018 and runs the city eateries, GAJA by Sashi and GAJA Express.

Ambassador Sashi says the oil is “very subtle with a delicate and light, fruity note … It certainly doesn’t overpower other flavours and could be used as an appetiser with white, crusty bread and dukkah.”  Photo: Adelaide Cemeteries.

Olives aren’t the only culinary delight at the cemetery, though.

Rare native apricot trees and a quandong grove remain among the graves. Native vegetation laws, however, prevent visitors from sampling the produce. 

As a self-guided natural trail map by the cemetery says, the site is “recognised as a valuable seed bank for the reintroduction of rare and endangered indigenous vegetation to the Adelaide plains”.

Maintaining cemeteries as biodiverse greenspaces could have benefits beyond the landscape’s health too, according to a recent CityMag article.

The link between greenspace exposure and a range of positive effects for humans, including for mental health, allergies and even cancer care, are being studied.

A quandong grove is a rare sight among the graves at West Terrace Cemetery. Photo: James Elsby.

University of Adelaide researcher Professor Philip Weinstein used the Torrens’ Linear Park as an example when interviewed by CityMag. But we’d also emphasise the Adelaide Park Lands Trail, which incorporates the West Terrace Cemetery. 

“People can use [the trail] as a transit corridor, and even if they don’t, it goes through the middle of the city and the microbiome that comes from that biodiverse environment is benefitting people who go nowhere near it,” Philip says. It’s food for thought.

The cemetery features an array of greenery, which could have knock-on effects for our health. Photo: James Elsby.

SASHI’S VINAIGRETTE RECIPE 

Ingredients

125ml West Terrace Cemetery Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Pinch of salt

Pinch of white pepper

Pinch of saffron

3 tablespoons of white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon of Dijon mustard

Method

Mix all the ingredients in a small jar. Tightly secure with a lid and shake until the ingredients mix well and emulsify.